Days 6 to 14
Day 6 Starry, Starry Sea… (Written on Oct 03, 2013)
Moonlit Indian Ocean.
Photo credit I. Ford
After dinner at 1920 we raised the anchor and slipped smoothly from our lovely anchorage in Turtle Bay. With a little zag to the NE, then a turn to the N, we set our evenings’ course. On deck, while Inday spoke on the phone, she could hear humpback whales splishing and splashing as they exit Shark Bay through Naturaliste Channel between Dirk Hartog and Dorre Islands. Lying on the flybridge sun lounge – now the “star lounge”, Inday, Carrie, Tas and I soaked in the massive, sparkling sky above. The light of Cape St Crique flashed bravely advertising Bernier Island. “This is when you feel very small” Inday commented. I remember a similar feeling a few decades back, while watching Halleys Comet in NZ. The vastness makes you feel oh-so-little… There is no cloud cover to speak of, we have 8/8 stars!
The water inside Shark Bay is calm, I mean really calm. The stars are beginning to sparkle in its’ glassiness. The deck feels moist tonight, indicating that the following day will be gorgeous too, with calm conditions. In a few miles, we will smell the Spinifex as the moisture increases.
We sail a starry sea… avast with glass and sparkles…
Starry Sea
Starry, starry sea
We sail upon thee
A glassy starred seaway
Mirrors our Milky Way
Stars in the water
Not doing what they ‘oughta
Just wishing on a star
To see a humpback star!
Gliding and cruising in the midnight hour
Listening for that blowing power
‘Tis not our first midnight whales
Dorsal fin in the moonlight sails
Ah – some of the finest whales I see
B’ twitched between midnight and 3!
Is it the time or company?
Of me, myself and star 2 million and three?
Venus from horizon to us
A line continuous
‘Tis all mixed up
With stars in my tea cup!
We sail a vasty sea of stars
Prefer this to Mars
The heavens immaculate
Are a zillion beams spectactulate!
(Written by Micheline Jenner)
At 0145 we are 9 nm due east of Cape Ronsard, at the tip of Bernier Island. We are now entering Geographe Channel and are still technically inside Shark Bay. Cape Cuvier is 32 nm to the north, where we’ll pass a “007 movie set” salt mine port at 6am.
Out of the dark and stars I heard a blow! No body was seen, but the whush of hot, cetacean air heard. Just beyond the protection of Bernier Island, one can feel the change in the sea, a slight swell of 0.5 m lifts us gently, distinctly different from the tabletop of the last 5 hours or so. We are spoilt, but we also pay our dues. Moisture felt on the deck and railings is also in the upper atmosphere, with a slight haze blurring the stars. In the Pilbara, just a hair to the north, this moisture at night, brings the promise of a glorious calm day ahead! Yea!
The morning dawns with a sea state of 3, (7-10 knots), it is calm but not as calm as it was last night… Surprisingly, we are not in the thick of whales. A huge number are already southward and there will be bucket-loads inside Exmouth Gulf in October. We are very interested to see how many whales are there tomorrow and also in the Onslow region for the next week.
At 1320 we are 15.79 nm abeam Amherst Point, which is the most southern part of Ningaloo Reef. This part fringing/part barrier reef extends 240 km, very close to the coast in several areas making it a wonderfully, accessible reef system. By 1412 we are 16 nm WSW of Coral Bay. Across the lightly, white-capped clear blue Indian Ocean, we saw at least two charter vessels fishing, criss-crossing to and fro, to the find the best grounds and then, with rooster tails flying they took their customers back to the sandy tourist town perched on the edge of the Indian Ocean.
Few whale sightings are recorded all day. Slowly the white-caps increased and on the ships log the weather changed from 7-10 knots and 11-16 knots and still the whales elude us. A late burst of whales, records 15 pods on the data sheet – just as we close with the coast in the area near Point Cloates.
As the golden sun sinks we are happy for the end of survey and the call to dinner! Hot steaming rice, beef steak Tagalog, roasted potatoes and salad, fill our hungry tummies. We set to finishing data and the usual rousing music and dishes event gets everyone pumped in the galley!
What is in store tomorrow? Can’t wait! As we approach Yardie Creek,
Mich
Day 7 Exmouth Town Foray! (Written on Oct 04, 2013)
Glassy Exmouth Gulf water with a humpback whale calf bobbing atop.
Photo credit M. Jenner
With a long night and a good, uneventful watch I was very happy to fall into bed after 3am. But not before giving my fringe a trim! Curt seemed to think a 3 o’clock hair-dressing session should be fraught with disaster! My only reply, “I am awake, you are asleep, I think it will be alright!” Upon inspection in the morning my hand seemed steady and luckily no visible crookedness! Otherwise, I can just walk with a stagger and everything will be alright!
After surveying for whales within the gulf and then back towards the Exmouth Marina we recorded lots of humpback whales, even in the 20+ knot wind conditions. At 1100 we came alongside at the fuel wharf where we took on 10,000 litres of fuel. With a few hours before picking up three new crew (Sandro and Gary from L3 and Sascha from CMST) for our next work, there was an excellent opportunity for the girlie crew to hit Exmouth! Calling a local taxi I had a very funny conversation! Upon requesting a ride for 2 personnel from the fuel jetty, being on a boat, the man asked me “What are you wearing? Are you in work clothes or (hesitantly) are you clean?” “Am I clean?” I replied, “Oh, yes, I am clean, you go ahead and bring the clean car!” Ten minutes later when he arrived I was still laughing! And so was he, when he saw me in a white shirt, yellow pants and pearls! Being on a boat doesn’t mean I have to be grotty all the time!
Tas and I made it to the Police Station for some paper-work to be witnessed and signed and then to the Post Office to be whisked away in the snail mail. In the process, we met quite a few locals from our time here, which was very nice! We even went to “The Shed”, Mrs. Mac’s op-shop to reminisce! Next stop, Idaho Boutique, where we found Inday! Next, we planned to venture to the Health Food Shop for lunch but while ducking into the newsagent for a newspaper and book for Tas, we couldn’t believe our eyes when we saw some dear Perth friends… wow! What a small world. Julie and Anne and daughters joined us for a drink while Tas and I enjoyed a much-needed and delicious Turkish bread sandwich. I was glad to see them and catch up on all their recent news. Pretty soon we were nearing our departure time. “The ship will leave at 3” had been the instructions to all crew leaving the vessel. We had a really nice time in Exmouth, enjoying all the random catch-ups over the 3 hours or so! I phoned the taxi again and with Maria and Carrie, luckily, we got the clean taxi for our return journey! I noticed our new crew, travelled from the airport in the dirty one, simply because we had the clean one!
Back on board, we swapped stories of our adventures in Exmouth! Tas and Maria raced off for an ankle deep swim at MacCleods Beach, as a 6m white pointer had been seen inside the gulf in the last few days… I went through a Whale Song Safety Briefing Induction with Sascha, advising of all aspects of the vessel, safety and living on board. Leaving the marina at 1603 we saw whales just outside the harbour. Stacks of whales (official statistics talk for a hugely significant amount!) lay at the surface, dotted around the horizon.
“Beep, beep” from my old phone indicates a message. The screen is rather small and without my glasses, I squint in the daylight and can’t really see what’s going on… Curt is not much better, he takes his glasses off! Helping me interpret a text with a picture from Micah, he decided it was the following things! “It’s a road sign, no it’s the dash of her car, no it’s two goldfish!” “What?” “Oh, these are her new pets, Bed and Breakfast!” Love it! Oh, this getting old has knobs on it, terribly humbling! Curt and I dissolve in raucous laughter in the wheelhouse as we realise that time is progressing and the wheels are starting to rearrange themselves, not falling off just getting aligned differently!
Sailing away from the marina we continued to see many, many whales resting. From the mast I got some photos and Inday filmed from the bow while Gary, Sascha and Sandro put in a hydrophone to record the “sounds” of a cow and calf humpback pair resting nearby. At 1910 dinner was served at the table, spag bog with salad and bread – yum!
Upon a tabletop of glassy calm water we cross Exmouth Gulf heading for Onslow and I dream of a slightly longer nights’ rest (than last night) before my watch,
Mich
Day 8 to 14 Exmouth Environs
A curious green turtle, one of many in the water surrounding Long Island.
Photo credit M.Jenner
For the week from October 05 to October 11, 2013 the Whale Song crew conducted research and trials with three colleagues from L3-Oceania (Sandro and Gary) and Sascha from CMST at Curtin University in the Exmouth environs. The wind was moderate in the 18-20 knot range, not super strong but not particularly light. The sunsets of course, were all wonderful!
A good week was had on board by all with productive and concentrated work. One highlight was a trip to the eastern beach of Serrurier Island (also known as Long Island) with everyone swimming near mating green turtles at the water’s edge! Wow!
On October 11, 13 we returned our colleagues to the Exmouth marina for connecting flights back to Perth. The end of the October holidays meant Tasmin was also heading back to school. In the rush of scaling the jetty posts to get off the boat for the waiting shuttle-bus, I realised Tas was almost inside the bus before I could give her a good-bye kiss and hug. I think the other passengers could see the look of panic in my eyes. After successfully farewelling four crew, at 1640 we set sail for Serrurier and another peaceful overnight rest before proceeding through Mary-anne Passage and northwards.
Mich
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