Day 2 WAVES

South from Southport on New Years’ Eve
(Written on Dec 31, 2013)

A juvenile Wandering albatross soaring above a lively Southern Ocean.
Photo credit M. Jenner

Popping my head up to look out the window after dawn, I surveyed the pretty scenery quickly, before flopping back down again. “Everything alright?” asked Curt. “Yep, perfect, it’s very nice here” I mumbled.

At 2120 last night we anchored in Deephole Bay at Southport and with a restful nights’ sleep we were ready to take off and really start our journey. Lumpy grey mountains of Cape Bruny, on the SW tip of Bruny Island on our portside were silhouetted in the rising sun and Deepwater Bank, near Sterile Island and Southeast Break, to our starboard created lots of white-water. At ten to seven we raised the anchor and slowly made our way out of the snug bay where we had spent the night. Heading through the southern part of D’Entrecasteaux Channel or The Channel (as known by the locals) formed between Bruny Island and Tasmania, we made for the Southern Ocean.

Internet connection persisted as we travelled and thus we received many lovely messages and sent a few last ones responding to kind encouragements. Thank you everyone. Around 9am we were abeam the southern tip of Tasmania, looking back at the last land we would see for a while… the 4-5 and then 6m swells coming from the SW, told us we were really in the Southern Ocean. Deep down I hoped a rainbow that we had seen over South East Cape, would bode well for our trip.

As the morning progressed, clouds of shearwaters ducked and weaved and Shy albatross soared. Just after 11am we passed Eddystone, two rocky outcrops representing a sailors’ nightmare. As soon as I saw the name on the chart I exclaimed, “Eddystone, is this the Eddy Stone Light?” Curt immediately replied in the negative, but I had already started singing… “Well, my father was the keeper of the Eddy Stone Light and he married a mermaid one fine night… “on and on until “Oh, for the life of the rolling sea…” At the end of my rendition of this sea shanty, there were not one, but a few puzzled faces staring! “What was that?” Their silence and expressions said loudly!

Shy albatross travelled very close to the wheelhouse and strongly braced their wings, almost out of control looking right at us! A flock of 60 Fairy prions bounced and danced just above the water surface, with a very similar jizz (or flight characterisitics) to storm petrels. The bird numbers of the Fairy prions and shearwaters varied, but a Shy albatross and one Wandering albatross, identified by markings on their wings, stayed with us for at least three hours of my afternoon watch. I simply LOVE Albatross. The enjoyment of the freedom of the sea is written all over their faces. The wind must feel good as they effortlessly glide, just missing the waves with their wing tips. All that fresh air! Curt, however thinks the opposite… he thinks they are just surviving and in fact, really they are just saying “One more Powerball and I’m outta here!” Each to their own!

At mid-day each day, I will outline a few characteristics physical and biological. These were the weather data experienced today.

Moody grey tones of the D’Entrecasteaux Channel as ‘Whale Song’ made her way towards the southeastern tip of Tasmania.
Photo credit M. Jenner

Noon Observations Dec 31, 2013

Lat/Long: 43 59.4S 147 04.9 E
Dry Bulb Temp: 12.5 degrees C
SST (Sea Surface Temp): 13.5 degrees C
COG (Course Over the Ground): 189 degrees
SOG (Speed Over the Ground): 5.7 knots
Beaufort SS (Sea State): 7
WS (Wind Speed): 30-35 knots
WD (Wind Direction): 230 degrees
Swell: 6-8m
Wildlife: Australian sea lions, Shy Albatross, Grey-headed albatross, Short-tailed shearwaters, Fairy prions, Wilson’s storm petrels and the odd expeditioners straying onto the Portuguese bridge deck!

Antarctic Fact: Antarctica is the coldest, windiest and driest continent on Earth.
Antarctic Slang: A Factor = the Antarctic factor, Murphy’s Law in Antarctica.

Fasta Pasta, our First-Night-Pasta or Fleet Pasta did the trick for lunch after a few chores were tended to. This type of weather will test a few systems. The afternoon was albatross-filled. Snapping some photos from the Portuguese bridge, while bracing carefully against the railing, I was happy to see the ducking and gliding of a consistently following Wandering albatross. They look like huge, air-borne geese! Wandering albatross, unusually have no eye “make-up”, like all the other dressed-up albatrosses.

The sea was comfortable despite the 8m swell and I wanted to catch some light green patches at the top of the wave crests – but my Captain has requested/ordered I stay inside… I just want to play on deck! Later on, I was able to satisfy my twitchy finger and was able to get some shots from the Portuguese bridge in full view of the wheelhouse and under the gaze of my watchful captain. Yahoo, thank you!

The crew wanders the ship wearing all the wonderful gear we got from Eddie Bauer, looking smart and snappy AND warm! All the garments are soo soft and soo warm, we are in heaven. After a short time on deck photographing birds, back in the wheelhouse I was so toasty I had to peel off layers immediately, for fear of passing out with warmth… We shall see how we go in the real cold but the evidence appears that we will be fine. THANK YOU, EDDIE BAUER!

With baked herbed chicken, hot smashed potatoes, steamed broccoli and honey/cashew carrots we dined with albatross circling in the twilight of the Southern Ocean! I am so happy to be here, this is such an opportunity and we are ecstatic at the chance of a life-time. We send Happy New Year wishes to all and hope for the very best for everyone and that your wishes will come true.

With the dulcet tones of Jack Johnson and busy card game murmurings in the background, I send heartfelt New Years’ best wishes, on the wings of a Wandering Albatross,

Mich